PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL EVALUATION OF NATURAL LIP STAIN USING DRAGON FRUIT (Hylocereus polyrhizus) PEEL

Abstract

This study evaluates the physical and chemical stability of natural lip stain formulations using red dragon fruit (Hylocereus polyrhizus) peel extract as a natural colorant. The extract was obtained via Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (UAE), followed by freeze-drying, and analyzed for Total Phenolic Content (18.38 mg GAE/L) and antioxidant activity (IC₅₀: 1588 ppm). Lip stains were formulated with varying concentrations of vitamin E (0.1% and 1%) and film-forming agents (Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose/HPMC and Dimethicone). Stability tests (color, pH, viscosity, spreadability) were conducted over 28 days at 30 °C, alongside a sensory evaluation involving 23 young adult panelists. The formulation containing 1% vitamin E showed the best color stability, while the HPMC formulation demonstrated superior viscosity and pH stability, along with the highest sensory preference. Overall, all formulations were stable, except the dimethicone variant which showed reduced spreadability due to phase separation. The 1% vitamin E formulation had the best color stability, while HPMC provided superior texture and user acceptance.